Black Market Bistro
4600 Waverly Ave.
Kensington/Garrett Park, MD 20896
Neighborhood: Rockville, Kensington/Garrett Park
Cuisines: Modern, Breakfast, American
Open Monday through Thursday 11 to 2:30 and 5 to 9, Friday and Saturday 11 to 2:30 and 5 to 9:30, Sunday 10 to 2:30 and 5 to 8
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Nearby Metro Stops: White Flint
Price Range: Expensive
Noise Level: Chatty
Cornmeal-fried oysters with tartar sauce; roast chicken; barbecue shrimp over corn-studded grits; wood-grilled hanger steak with chimichurri; fried-onion-topped cheeseburger; apple crisp; potato latkes and orange-vanilla French toast at brunch.
Lunch appetizers, $4 to $9; entrées, $8 to $14. Dinner appetizers, $7 to $12; entrées, $9 to $25. Brunch entrées, $10 to $14.
Special Features: Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Weekend Brunch, Outdoor Seating
Jeff Black has such an understanding of the middlebrow diner, you’d think he had spent hours conducting studies of the market he dominates. But the restaurateur says he simply creates the kind of places he enjoys—cozy spots where the cooking comforts rather than challenges.
The dominant feature here is the space itself, with handsome molding and lustrous pine floors that transport you to one of Charleston’s stately rowhouses. That regional theme is reinforced by the kitchen, which, when it doesn’t yearn for the South (the shrimp and grits is lovingly faithful), longs for Italy (a gorgeous antipasti board). The wine list is full of values—bottles are half off on Mondays. On weekends, the place is a premier brunch destination. Digging into a stack of blueberry pancakes while sipping fresh-squeezed OJ is a kind of earthly bliss.
Don’t miss: Mussels with shallots, tomatoes, and parsley or lemongrass and coconut milk; cornmeal-crusted oysters; pan-seared trout; pumpkin-pecan “Boston cream pie.”
Open: Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Expensive.