The Needle: August 2011
Reviewed By Kate Nerenberg
Comments () | Published August 1, 2011
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Address: 775 G St., NW, Washington, DC 20001
Phone: 202-737-7663
Neighborhood: Penn Quarter/Chinatown
Cuisines: Modern
Opening Hours: Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday through Monday for dinner.
Nearby Metro Stops: Metro Center, Gallery Place-Chinatown
Price Range: Expensive
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Vietnamese Wagyu-beef carpaccio; nonna-inspired chicken meatballs; pork confit; sweetbreads over a sauté of charred corn; meatballs with goat-cheese agnolotti; miso-glazed sablefish; perfectly pink duck breast with pomegranate vinaigrette

At restaurants such as this lively Penn Quarter wine den—where a call for a reservation is usually answered, “We have tables at 5 or 10:30”—it’s not uncommon for the food to slip. Management is pulling double duty, overseeing the white-hot Estadio in Logan Circle, but judging by a recent knockout meal—from a well-balanced Root cocktail toveal sweetbreads with pickled mushrooms, grapes, and a poached egg—the team is doing well. Even the simplest dishes, such as a side of cauliflower with mint and tahini, confirm that the customers who pack the place aren’t there just for the scene.

This article appears in the August 2011 issue of The Washingtonian.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 08/01/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews