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Chef Michael Costa may not have the name recognition of his predecessor, Top Chef All-Stars contestant Mike Isabella, but he’s been keeping José Andrés’s mezze destination running smoothly. The biggest hit on a recent visit was a special of a rich lamb stew in phyllo. A special of roasted fresh chickpeas—served in the pod like edamame—was pleasantly unusual but tough to eat, though the lemony oil kept us returning to the bowl throughout the meal.
This article appears in the June 2011 issue of The Washingtonian.