For $35, brunchgoers can sample three courses of Bryan Voltaggio’s modern-meets-rustic cuisine inside this artfully remodeled brownstone. Appetizers include rich goat-cheese ravioli and a painterly plate of salsify, apple, ham, and hazelnuts. Among the best entrées are pork-belly hash with poached eggs and piquillo peppers and a thin omelet with lobster, mushrooms, and asparagus. À la carte sides could pass for main courses. They include flaky scallion biscuits with sausage gravy—one of the best versions of the dish we’ve tried. End the meal with a cheese sampler showcasing artisans both local and far-flung. Saturday and Sunday 11:30 to 2.