Northern Italian cooking that's high on value.

This northern Italian restaurant offers very good food at very reasonable prices. Except for the beef tenderloin, none of the main courses is more than $20. High ceilings and comfortable chairs help make it an enjoyable, albeit noisy, place.

The menu is unusual in that it lets diners choose normal-size dishes or famiglia portions that serve two or more but cost only 60 percent more. Good starters are the beef carpaccio with apples, walnuts, and shaved Parmesan; the classic bruschetta; and the steamed mussels Argia with a broth enhanced with white wine, garlic, and parsley. Pastas, varied and excellent, include saffron fettuccine with scallops and egg linguine with shrimp, zucchini, and tomato. For a main course, consider the pork tenderloin wrapped in pancetta with a black-pepper crust; the braised lamb shank; and Saltimbocca alla Romana. There are daily specials, including a fish selection. The luncheon menu features panini, the flattened sandwiches of Italy, and pastas, with prices starting at $7.95. The good wine list is well priced.

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