This refined American mainstay got a big shakeup last year with the departure of its longtime chef. Fortunately, the wine-centric restaurant acquired two new talents: Austin Fausett, a former Trummer’s on Main chef, and general manager Brent Kroll, previously wine director for the Neighborhood Restaurant Group. Fausett still serves staples without which regulars might riot (tuna tartare with nori tempura, foie-gras-and-cherry shortcake), but he has also added his own touches, such as the Peruvian ceviche or a pork chop with radish kimchee and black-garlic sauce. Servers are as handy as ever with a solid recommendation from the impressive wine list or, on one occasion, a very good Julia Child impression. Expensive.
Also great: Veal sweetbreads; lamb chops with apricots and yogurt; warm chocolate-hazelnut cake.