You could probably close your eyes and point to random dishes at this old-school Chinatown-style eatery and end up with a stellar meal, but a better ploy is to enlist the savvy waitstaff. Otherwise, you might pass over sleeper hit casseroles such as a black-pepper-infused tureen of beef. Other go-to choices: a platter of juicy soy-sauce chicken and glossy-skinned roast duck and pork, and perfectly fried shell-on shrimp with spicy salt. Watercress, snow-pea leaves, and water spinach done up with oil and garlic make it easy to eat your greens. Also good: Clams with black-bean sauce and chilies; eggplant-and-chicken casserole.