Chef Amy Brandwein likes to keep things simple at her stylish osteria, neighboring Hermès and Louis Vuitton at swanky CityCenterDC. She understands better than most that the subtle smoke and char of a wood-fired oven or a really good olive oil is often the only accessory that high-quality seasonal ingredients need. She also knows pasta, whether it’s house-made ribbons of pappardelle curled around roasted mushrooms or cappellacci plumped with pumpkin and ricotta. The adjoining market sells Brandwein’s pastas and sauces along with sustainable seafood and Italian pantry items. Expensive.
Also great: Burrata with figs; tuna-and-sausage meatballs; rare tuna with beets; paccheri pasta with white Bolognese; torta di formaggio.