When a Yelper commented, “I must just be too white for this place. . . . They have nothing even similar to pad Thai,” the owners of this northern Thai gem proudly promoted the one-star review on its bathroom wall and sidewalk sign. Beef tossed with lemongrass and herbs, pork curry with pickled garlic, and vermicelli in chili-peanut sauce will make lovers of spicy, funky flavors forget all about Americanized takeout staples. Also good: Khao soi gai (chicken curry with egg noodles); pork and tomato-chili dip; chicken stuffed in tapioca skin.