100 Very Best 2016Time was, big chunks of protein were an emblem of upscale cuisine. These days, though, famous chefs are moving away from meat and toward vegetables: Witness the popularity of José Andrés’s Beefsteak (named for the tomato). Now Todd and Ellen Gray are getting into the act at their 17-year-old restaurant—roughly half the dinner menu is now vegan. And it works, most of the time. Even carnivores should explore the creative “plant-based selections” —we loved crispy sherry-glazed cauliflower with roasted spaghetti squash and a wild-mushroom pot au feu. Then again, soy-based chestnut velouté doesn’t have the same ethereal quality sans cream, and other options beckon from the menu’s omnivorous side, such as perfectly seared scallops or pappardelle in a lustrous Bolognese. Thankfully, all dishes can be ordered in half or full portions, inviting diners to dabble where they please.
Don’t miss: Truffled risotto fritters; Roman-style artichokes; bacon-wrapped venison; truffled macaroni and cheese; ganache tart.
See what other restaurants made our 100 Very Best Restaurants list. This article appears in our February 2016 issue of Washingtonian.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
