Maketto

The sleek space may be minimalist, but the food at this Taiwanese-Cambodian spot is anything but. Flavors are layered, embellishments are many. Take yu choy, a leafy Chinese vegetable from the mustard-cabbage family. Wok-fried, it gets extra punch from briny anchovies and olives. Crispy Gruyère dumplings with spicy Chinese beef chili are a cross-cultural flavor bomb. And glossy roast duck comes with the works: sesame plum sauce, fermented vegetables, lettuce, and fresh herbs. The Chinese egg-custard tart, redo-lent of vanilla, is the perfect way to end.