100 Very Best 2023Aside from its all-day hours, David Deshaies’s Shaw spot feels more urbane dining room than workaday diner. The Frenchman’s menu is rooted in Americana—there are few better fried-chicken plates in the city—but has a hodgepodge of influences. The fabulous meatloaf gets a Sriracha kick, and a platter of Peking-duck confit shares menu space with Moroccan taquitos. The gooey double cheeseburger is straight-up US of A—like the fast-food indulgence of your dreams. There are several gluten- and dairy-free options, too. Moderate.
