Claudio Pirollo’s menu lacks the innovation of most of the
restaurants in its class (his terrific mussel burger excepted), but
there’s a reason his cozy Belgian place is swarmed even on
weekdays—there’s enormous comfort to be derived from steak frites
or a bowl of mussels. The steadiness of the kitchen doesn’t hurt, either.
Nor does the vibe: The narrow room has the feel of a low-key dinner party
in an exclusive neighborhood—the kind in which talk abounds about European
travel, guests try out their French, and name-dropping is
Pastry chef Andras Horvoth has a gift for making the simple
seem extravagant. His Belgian waffle is as good as anything you’d find
across the pond. Don’t miss: Warm goat cheese with
greens; smoked-trout salad; salmon with lentils and mustard sauce; hanger
steak with peppercorn sauce; pear tart with Hoegaarden-beer ice cream;
profiteroles. Open: Monday for dinner, Tuesday through
Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner.