100 Very Best 2015If you were looking for a primer on dining trends, you could hardly do better than this big-city twist on the farm-to-table restaurant. The dining room is a paean to Americana with its artfully artless display of crockery, while the tattooed staff and pumped-up comfort foods signal an operation as up-to-the-moment as an Instagram pic.
The fun is in cobbling together a meal that might induce whiplash—moving from the North (duck-liver-gravy poutine) to the South (fried pimiento cheese) to the South of France (bone marrow with toasts)—or indulging in Scot Harlan’s winking mash-ups, such as Kung Pao sweetbreads or pork ribs in Buffalo sauce and blue-cheese fondue.
Don’t miss: Crispy pig taco; cornbread with maple butter; Parker House rolls; rabbit cake; roast chicken; butterscotch pudding; banana cream cake; pie of the day.
Open: Monday and Wednesday through Friday for dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner.
Moderate.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
