100 Very Best Restaurants 2013: Sushi Sono

At Columbia’s Sushi Sono, a whole aji (horse mackerel) is deep-fried with salt and served as sushi or sashimi. Photograph by Andrew Propp.
At Columbia’s Sushi Sono, a whole aji (horse mackerel) is deep-fried with salt and served as sushi or sashimi. Photograph by Andrew Propp.

Among the rules many food lovers live by, one of the most common is never to expect good food at a place with a great view.

Unless that place is Sushi Sono, where the raw fish might make you forget that Lake Kittamaqundi is framed majestically by tall windows. Chef/owner King Lin sends out dishes of such beauty that patrons reach for their smartphones before digging in.

Lin is a serious shopper, and he works with a craftsman’s care for the materials—qualities that are on display in his conversation-stopper: a mackerel fashioned into a riverboat flanked by sashimi on one side, nigiri on the other.

Don’t miss: Sunomono (shellfish and cucumber in a sweet vinegar sauce); oshinko (Japanese pickles); soft-shell crab with ponzu; daily sashimi; Bridal Veil Roll, with spicy lobster salad; Dragon Roll, with shrimp tempura and lobster; yellowtail, mackerel, and salmon nigiri.

Open: Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.

Expensive.

100 Very Best Restaurants 2013

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