For its first few months, this white-on-white dining room felt like a play stuck in the previews phase. But finally, the place’s expression of the bright, bold flavors of northern Thailand and Vietnam has become fully realized.
The kitchen, led by Haidar Karoum—also behind Estadio and Proof—takes a grandmotherly approach to cooking, carefully grinding spices and chilies and refusing to dumb down the cuisines’ traditional, often fiery flavors. The ground-duck salad, fragrant with kaffir lime, has a singeing intensity. Curries, such as a halibut version with green peppercorns and galangal, are more assertive than you’ll usually find. Even the cocktail cashews leave a pleasant burn. Balance these with the soothing crab fried rice and Adam Bernbach’s excellent drinks.
- Sour Isaan-style sausage
- Marinated beef with Sriracha
- Pork-and-shrimp spring rolls
- Fried-pork dumplings
- Spicy tofu salad with soy-lime dressing
- Crispy duck confit with chilies
- Stir-fried pineapple with ginger
- Miniature soft-serve cones