Chefs have shuffled, but you’d never know it—the airtight Spanish menu hasn’t changed much, and the kitchen is as deft as ever. Though most dishes are billed as tapas—and servers may suggest four per person—they actually range from tiny snacks to entrée-size meats with sides. We never miss bocadillos—the slider-size sandwiches filled with, say, pork belly and shishito-pepper aïoli—and anything grilled, such as lemony charred calamari. The bar stirs up some of the best gin-and-tonics. Moderate.
Also great: Tomato bread; croquetas; sautéed shrimp with garlic; Manchego cheesecake.