100 Very Best Restaurants 2017: Graffiato

Graffiato offers a seafood-heavy Feast of the Seven Fishes, including this seashell pasta with shrimp, bay scallops, clams, and calamari. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Mike Isabella’s flagship restaurant—now one of a growing many—still draws boisterous crowds, especially on the neighboring Verizon Center’s busy nights. Service matches the frenetic energy, as does pacing—yep, that’s your pizza before the appetizers—but this isn’t a leisurely type of Italian. Enjoyment means giving in to the party vibe and relishing the bold flavors of Isabella’s Italy-meets-Jersey menu. We’d forgo meat/fish entrées for a tableful of antipasti, pillowy gnocchi with braised-pork ragu, and that ever-tasty “Countryman” pizza topped with truffle, fontina, and a runny egg. Moderate.

Also great: Grilled octopus with lentils and fennel; Caesar salad; “Goodfellas” pizza with meatballs; zeppole.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

Anna Spiegel
Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.

Jessica Sidman
Food Editor

Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.

Kristen Hinman
Articles Editor

Kristen Hinman has been editing Washingtonian’s features since 2014. She joined the magazine after editing politics & policy coverage for Bloomberg Businessweek and working as a staff writer for Voice Media Group/Riverfront Times.