If you think brunch is all about carbo-loading, mimosa-downing indulgence, then step through the door of this restored white-columned post office, settle into one of the charming, Southern-style rooms, and see if the cares of the week don’t slip away. Jeff and Barbara Black have mastered the art of brunch as idyll. The kitchen eschews clever inversions and willful reinterpretations, instead perfecting the simple staples we all know and love—French toast, buttermilk pancakes, steak and eggs, and pastries. The difference is that we love them more here. Sunday 10 to 2:30.