Any slob with a back-yard grill can cook meat over charcoal. What you get at Ravi, the granddaddy of the area’s many kebab parlors, is the skill, knowledge, experience, and patience to turn that simple endeavor into high artisanal craft. These are kebabs to savor and take your time with, from the warmly spiced minced beef to the incomparably juicy bone-in chicken. And don’t miss the chickpea stew known as chana, simmered for hours with onions and garlic until the mixture becomes sticky.
Also good: Minced-meat kebab; karahi with minced meat or bone-in chicken kebab.