You don’t hear the phrase “complete meal” much anymore, but it was as common in the 1960s as small plates and tasting menus are now. Lest you get sticker shock when you see a $71 duck à l’orange, know that the method of ordering—in which an appetizer and a dessert are included with the price of an entrée—is still in full effect at this colorful Alsatian-style cottage.
Many of the best dishes, such as a beautifully poached lobster with tropical fruits, a robust array of sausages over sauerkraut, and a sugar-dusted Grand Marnier soufflé have been on the menu for decades. And although the flowery curtains, stained-glass windows, and portraits in gilded frames recall another era of fine dining, the restaurant isn’t ignorant of the times.
In the newer Jacques’ Brasserie section of the place, you don’t need to dress up or have a reservation, and you can get a quick bacon-and-onion tart or onion soup at prices that aren’t only fit for a special occasion.
Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner (until 7:30 on Sunday).