The Latin fare in this sunny dining room isn’t so much fusion as a collection of the greatest hits from Mexico, El Salvador, Spain, and Cuba. Begin with a cross-contintental tasting: garlicky Spanish shrimp in wine-butter sauce; chorizo and mushrooms cloaked beneath queso fundido; and tamales stuffed with tender chicken and chickpeas. Generous entrées, many served with black beans and buttery rice, nearly guarantee leftovers. We’re partial to masitas de puerco—Cuban pork marinated in garlic and bitter orange—and smoky carne asada skirt steak. The one can’t-miss dish among many options: pupusas, thick yet greaseless, stuffed liberally with roast pork and cheese (there are nine fillings to choose from), and served with tangy cabbage slaw.
Where you can find it: 631 University Blvd. E., Silver Spring; 301-445-7300
Also good: Seafood pupusas; classic ceviche; pan-fried trout with tomatoes and white-wine sauce.