Pizzas at Vace (3315 Connecticut Ave., NW, 202-363-1999; 4705 Miller Ave., Bethesda, 301-654-6367) are unconventional but delicious. Here the cheese comes first, then the sauce. The result is a pizza with a snappy, bubbled crust. Toppings are offbeat, too—regional Italian meats like capicola, sopressatta, and pancetta are among the possibilities. Vace also sells dough and top-notch fresh mozzarella for do-it-yourselfers. Slice of cheese pizza $1.60, large pie $9.50.