Jeff Buben’s refined dining room feels far from a modern bistro—the fast-paced restaurant that seems as loud as the 9:30 Club. This is a plush, warm-toned respite for elegant, canonical French cooking. Few places do mussels as well, or onion soup, or the classic frisée salad (one of our favorite vehicles for bacon and eggs). Buben’s quiet confidence elevates dishes with subtle tweaks. A crisp-skinned duck breast is paired not with the classic orange but with roasted pear, while a roast chicken gets a Spanish-inspired smoked-paprika jus. The savory stuff is hearty, but save room for the opulent desserts—no surprise, the crème brûlée is near perfect—or a few selections from the lavishly appointed cheese trolley. Expensive.
Also great: endive salad with poached pear; steak frites; pork chop with braised red cabbage; beef bourguignon; apple tart.