“Something for everyone” is a phrase attributed to the likes of Applebee’s, but it also works for chef Erik Bruner-Yang’s versatile Southeast Asian spot. (Granted, that’s assuming you like the punchy, spicy flavors of Cambodia and Taiwan.) The retail space/restaurant is its best self on warm evenings, when diners fill the string-lit courtyard for Tiger beers, shrimp dumplings, and chili-laced fried chicken. That said, a chilly morning is bettered by a warm bacon-scallion bun and matcha latte in the cafe or heady duck noodle soup come lunch. Moderate.
Also great: Dim sum brunch; bone-marrow-and-laab salad; roasted-red-pork bao platter.