Chef/owner Erik Bruner-Yang may be spending more time at Maketto, his ambitious Taiwanese/Cambodian restaurant up the street, but you wouldn’t know it save for his absence in the open kitchen—there’s still good reason to snag one of this ramen joint’s 27 stools. Number one: soups such as the Toki Classic, packed with noodles, mustard greens, pickled ginger, a sous-vide egg, and an unapologetic quantity of pork. Though bowls are beyond filling, don’t ignore starters like the fried-chicken bao buns. Sakes and good cocktails help cut the richness, as do vegetarian dishes such as the seasonal tsukemen—noodles with a garden’s bounty of veggies and herbs.
Don’t miss: Pan-fried pork dumplings; kimchee ramen; fried-chicken dan-dan noodles; chocolate-chip cookies with red-miso buttercream.