100 Very Best Restaurants 2015: No. 39 Corduroy

Tuna with hijiki and sushi rice. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

In a neighborhood bustling with newcomers—including this rowhouse restaurant’s more casual sibling, Baby Wale—chef Tom Power’s stately original is a welcome anomaly. Minimal din allows for soft jazz and easy conversation, crisp linens dress the tables, and black-suited servers deftly cater to the clientele. Still, the two-story dining room never feels dated, thanks in part to Power’s dedication to consistency and seasonality.

The menu rarely gets any kind of overhaul, but tucking into a bowl of beautifully earthy cauliflower-Parmesan soup or the signature seared tuna with sushi rice—on the menu for 14 years—feels as satisfying as hanging out with an old friend. One worthy nod to the neighborhood’s younger demographic: a $30 three-course menu in the upstairs bar.

Don’t miss:

  • Crab blintz with chayote slaw
  • Confit guinea hen
  • Chocolate tart with banana
  • Ice creams

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

Anna Spiegel
Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.