Chef Fabio and wife Maria Trabocchi have greatly expanded their restaurant empire in the five years since opening this fine-dining flagship. Keeping things fresh is a new tasting-menu format that embraces the kitchen’s many luxurious tendencies. Just say yes to creamy Belon oysters and caviar, lobster ravioli garnished with a half tail and a claw, and pine-smoked duck with seared foie gras—not to mention Alba white truffles in season. The price reflects the ingredients, starting at $95 for three inevitably rich courses. (À la carte dining is still available at the bar and by request.) Servers are in the business of catering to needs, VIP and not, as is head sommelier Jennifer Foucher—as affable with pairings as with recommendations by the glass. Very expensive.
Also great: Ahi crudo with uni and hamachi; osso buco tortellini; chestnut cappuccino; turbot with mussels and saffron; tiramisu.