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January 2005: Colvin Run Tavern

Bob Kinkead spends most of the week at Kinkead’s in downtown DC, but on weekends he turns his attention to his Tysons Corner restaurant.

BLUE RIBBON AWARD WINNER

Bob Kinkead spends most of the week at Kinkead's in downtown DC, but on weekends he turns his attention to his Tysons Corner restaurant. During the week, chef Jeffrey Gaetjen holds the fort very capably, so there is no inconsistency. As befits a restaurant that shares a building with Tiffany, Gucci, and Hermés, the decorations are subdued and in good taste, with several pretty rooms behind the reception and bar area. Many diners think of Kinkead's primarily as a seafood restaurant, but Colvin Run Tavern does it all.

A recent dinner for four began with a gratin of lump crab with garlic cream, a terrine of foie gras with Calvados and a dried pear apple Charlotte, smoked moulard duck breast with a sweet-potato purée and huckleberry sauce, and a lobster bisque with a shrimp-and-English-pea agnolotti. Main courses were flounder wrapped in spring-roll paper with house-made egg noodles; pan-roasted muscovy duck breast with savory potato gnocchi; pepper, sea-salt, and cocoa-spiced rare tuna with sweet potato, chili, and corn hash; and from the serving cart, roasted-garlic-stuffed prime rib with Yorkshire pudding.

Desserts included a chocolate sampler and bittersweet chocolate hazelnut mousse cake beautifully presented with droplets of chocolate.

On a first visit consider the $59-per-person tasting menu