July 2003: Arbor Restaurant and Wine Bar
Fans of the Belmont Kitchen will recognize one menu item, an upside-down pizza—a sort of pizza tarte Tatin—here with the pizza used as a container for salad. The crust and cheese are fine, but the salad dressing is too sweet. The shrimpcake appetizer, shrimp in a corn batter, was much better. Steak frites, cooked as ordered, was marred by a bitter deglazing sauce, and a nicely cooked rack of lamb by undercooked couscous and overcooked root vegetables. The restaurant is pricer than its level of cooking justifies—$110 for two, including the least expensive bottle of wine on the list, tax, and tip.
Arbor Restaurant and Wine Bar, 2400 18th St., NW; 202-667-1200. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, Sunday brunch.