100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Kogiya

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Once you make the acquaintance of this brash but assured newcomer, you’ll consign every other local experience you’ve had with Korean barbecue to “before Kogiya.” Meet the new king of Koreatown, a pulsing meat market manned by young, black-T-shirted staffers that aggressively channels the hipster spirit of a private club in an abandoned warehouse. It’s Kogiya’s seriousness of approach, however, that separates it from a slew of competitors. The cuts of pork and beef are better, the marinades have more flavor and depth, and the tabletop grills cook hotter and faster. Don’t let the temptation to focus exclusively on meat (there’s an all-you-can-eat option) distract you from the rest of the menu; the steamed mandu (they also come fried) are surprisingly delicate, and the seafood pancake is lighter than most.

Open: Daily for lunch and dinner.

Don’t Miss: Marinated pork ribs; pork belly; marinated duck.

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