Cheap Eats 2007: Domku
Comments () | Published July 12, 2007
Cheap Eats (2009)

Domku
Address: 821 Upshur Street, NW, Washington, DC 20011
Phone: 202-722-7475
Neighborhood: Georgia Ave./Petworth/Takoma DC
Cuisines: Scandinavian, Russian/E. European, Breakfast
Opening Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday 5 to 11, Thursday 10 to 11, Friday 10 to midnight, and Sunday 10 to 10:30.
Nearby Metro Stops: Georgia Ave.-Petworth
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Gravlax and cream cheese sandwich; gravlax with sweet mustard; pickled herring plate; smoked sprats plate; beet salad; mussles in aquavit-cream; pierogi; Swedish meatballs; beef tenderloin with tomato hollandaise; Norwegian pancake; Finnish buttermilk che
Price Details: Appetizers $5 to $8; entrées $6 to $18.

The arty young crowd, the eclectic furnishings, the pool table in back—all make this Petworth restaurant/lounge feel like a college-town outpost. But instead of sprout cuisine, the focus is on the hearty cooking of Eastern Europe.

In keeping with the motif is a roster of wines and beers from the region, like the chewy Utenos Porter from Lithuania and Kindzmarauli Saperavi, a sturdy Georgian red wine. House-infused vodka aquavits come in oddball flavors like black currant and cardamom. These go well with big plates of pork chops, braised cabbage, and dumplings, or Swedish meatballs, mashed potatoes, and lingonberry preserves. A winter dish called Janssen’s Temptation shows what anchovies can do for a potato gratin. The two kinds of pork and cabbage in Bigos Warszawski give the robust stew a double whammy of flavor.

Almond cake with an almond-caramel topping is one way to go for dessert, but the hot glog, a warm brew of wine and vodka, is a contender, too.

Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner.

Subscribe to Washingtonian
Posted at 10:36 AM/ET, 07/12/2007 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews