Part Irish bar (dark wood, ornate mirrors, Guinness draft), part eat-in/take-out, this offspring of Restaurant Eve turns out crisp hunks of cod and skate in grease-spattered paper bags (we think the secret to the batter is beer, but no one will tell).
Chef Cathal Armstrong’s seven dunking sauces, including a mild curry and a zippy tartar, are a nifty gourmet touch, while the thick chipper-style fries and coleslaw (practically health food in this lineup) aim straight for the heart. For fryer fans, battered burgers, sausages, and even candy bars make a good showing. But sensible folks will content themselves with a Cadbury Flake.
There is, after all, a limit to how many fried things you can eat at one meal—although this playfully kitschy chip shop seems determined to prove otherwise.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
