Best Restaurants 2010: Sushi-Ko
No. 42: Sushi-Ko Chevy Chase
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Cynthia Hacinli, Ann Limpert, Kate Nerenberg, Rina Rapuano
Comments () | Published January 1, 2010
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Sushiko II - Chevy Chase
Address: 5455 Wisconsin Ave., Chevy Chase, MD 20815
Phone: 301-961-1644
Neighborhood: Tenleytown/Friendship Heights, Chevy Chase
Cuisines: Sushi, Japanese
Opening Hours: Open for lunch daily 12 to 3, Monday through Wednesday kitchen closes until dinner 5:30 to 10, Thursday through Friday kitchen reopens 5:30-10:30. Saturday through Sunday open 12 to 10:30.
Nearby Metro Stops: Friendship Heights
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Spot-prawn nigiri; scallop sashimi; sashimi or nigiri of salmon, yellowtail, yellowtail belly, and mackerel; soft-shell crab; salmon teriyaki.
Price Details: Main dishes $15 to $22, Sushi $4 to $11

Cuisine: For raw-fish fanciers, there are few better places to appreciate the subtleties of the genre than these restaurants, which trade on smart sourcing and eschew style points and overambitious menus in favor of careful execution. The nigiri in particular are models of purity and balance: small, well-seasoned pads of rice, atop which sit thin, delicately carved slices of fresh fish.

Mood: The original in Glover Park is the city’s oldest sushi bar and remains a template for the sort of unstuffy dining rooms cropping up around the area (though some might find it austere); the sumptuous spinoff in Friendship Heights manages to ride the line between glamorous and accessible.

Best for: Sushi purists.

Best dishes: Spot-prawn nigiri; a presentation of scallop sashimi, alternately rich and clean; sashimi or nigiri of salmon, yellowtail, yellowtail belly, and mackerel; a light and crisp deep-fried soft-shell crab with ponzu sauce; salmon teriyaki.

Insider tips: Sushi, particularly sashimi, makes a surprisingly rewarding take-out dinner (unlike pizza, there’s no chance of steaming), and both locations are attentive to the needs of diners looking to duck in and out.

Service: ••

DC location open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday through Monday for dinner. Chevy Chase location open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate to expensive.

See all of 2010's 100 Best Restaurants

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/01/2010 RSS | Print | Permalink | Restaurant Reviews