Cuisine: Mussels, steak frites, country pâté—rear-guard staples of the Parisian bistro scene—dominate the menu at this likable, dependable Eastern Market hot spot, but there’s an occasional nontraditional special or two.
Mood: A loud, clangy place that packs customers in so tightly you could pluck a fry off your neighbor’s table. In other words, a real bistro where you’ll find Le Chat Noir posters, not a celebrity chef.
Best for: A budget date; a raucous, wine-soaked dinner with friends.
Best dishes: Mussels with chorizo or shallots and cream; duck pâté with Armagnac (a special); braised rabbit with buttery linguine; hanger steak in a richly reduced red-wine sauce; floating island, a meringue surrounded by crème anglaise; crème brûlée; fruit tarts.
Insider tips: Brunch, so often an afterthought, gets respect here.
Service: ••
Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.
See all of 2010's 100 Best Restaurants
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
