There might be six TVs going in this wood-paneled soul-food restaurant, but the first thing you hear is the hiss of a fryer sizzling up batches of flattened pork chops, battered chicken, and filets of trout.
The fried chicken is owner Francine Helton’s family recipe, and it’s terrific, all moist meat and spicy crunch. The hickory-smoked barbecue—either shreds of smoky pork or tender pork ribs—is worthy, too, and even better with a dash of the house-made pepper sauce.
Place your order at the counter—don’t forget sides like skin-on mashed potatoes, crusty mac and cheese, eggy potato salad, and crumbly cornbread—then grab a booth or a seat at the bar and wait the 15 minutes or so everything takes to make.
Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday from 1 to 9, Sunday from 2 to 7.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
