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Mandalay
Elements of Thai, Chinese, and Indian cooking come together in Burmese cuisine.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published October 19, 2006
Cheap Eats 2010
Mandalay Restaurant & Café
Address: 930 Bonifant St., Silver Spring/Takoma Park, MD 20910
Phone: 301-585-0500
Neighborhood: Silver Spring/Takoma Park
Cuisines: Vegetarian/Vegan, Burmese
Opening Hours: Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5 9:30, Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5 to 10, Sunday noon to 2:30 and 5 to 9:30.
Nearby Metro Stops: Silver Spring
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Squash fritters; spring roll salad; ginger salad; fermented tea leaf salad; sliced pork with sour mustard greens; LetThoke Sone, four styles of noodles; stirfry of broad noodles, egg, and shrimp; catfish in red sauce; ShweJi, a Cream of Wheat cake.

From June 2006 Cheap Eats

The move from a snug cafe in College Park to a larger dining room in Silver Spring may have sapped this Burmese restaurant of some of its charm--service hasn't been the same since the Myint family took on a larger staff--but the kitchen still has its vigor.

Burmese cooking isn't as bright or hot as Thai, it isn't as complex in its spicing as Indian, and it lacks the regional breadth of Chinese. It borrows elements from all three neighbors and synthesizes them.

You taste it in dishes like Baya Gyaw Thoke, where pleasantly grainy gram fritters are a counterpoint to a slaw of shredded cabbage and carrots sprinkled with peanuts, or a big spring-roll salad, all crunch and tang, or a filet of salmon bathed in an onion-and-tomato curry.

Vegetarians and vegans will find much to like. But omnivores are luckiest, able to dip into both halves of the menu for something savory--flavorful vegetarian curries like fried tofu in silky coconut cream or an onion-based curry blanketing tender eggplant or meatier fare, like a pork curry cut with sour pickled mangoes.

Onion-tomato curry is the dominant theme in the hot-dish lineup--you can have it with meats and vegetables. A number of plates--notably the noodle variations and several tougher beef preparations--taste less like restaurant creations and more like clunky home cooking.

For dessert, the sticky rice--caramel-hued with brown sugar and coconut cream--and the shweji, poppy-crusted baked cream of wheat, are delicious and go admirably with a steaming cup of Yay Nway Gyan made with hand-picked green-tea leaves from Myanmar.
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Posted at 01:52 PM/ET, 10/19/2006 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews