1330 Maryland Ave., SW
Washington, DC 20024
Neighborhood: Capitol Hill, Capitol Hill, Southwest/Waterfront
Cuisines: Southern, American, Breakfast
Breakfast Monday through Friday 6:30 to 11:00 AM, Saturday and Sunday 7-11 AM, lunch daily 11:30 to 4, dinner daily 5:30 to 10.
Nearby Metro Stops: Smithsonian, L'Enfant Plaza
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Upscale Casual
Noise Level: N/A
Root-beer float with Jack Daniel’s; crab bisque; corn soup with bacon; oysters with grilled sausage; hushpuppies; veal sweetbreads with grits; fried chicken; porgy with crab imperial; banana cream pie; fried apple pie; vanilla cheesecake.
Starters, $7 to $16; main courses, $21to $28.
Exuding an “aw, shucks” attitude in the classy Mandarin Oriental hotel isn’t easy. The downtown decor, overly attentive service, and practice of serving Miller High Life in a Champagne glass belie the down-home aspirations of the Southern-inspired menu. And some of the dishes overseen by CityZen chef Eric Ziebold—such as the chicken and dumplings, which suffers from too little gravy and only two dinky dumplings—show the downside of fancifying humble fare. But when the kitchen is turning out fried chicken and hushpuppies this good, it’s easy to ignore the disappointments. Masterful products from the fryer also include an apple pie that should have its own rehab program.
Don’t miss: Fried oysters; sweetbreads with grits; creamy corn soup with bacon; vanilla cheesecake.
For a full review of Sou'Wester, click here.