Dream Weekends: Hope and Glory Inn

A charmer on the Chesapeake.

Irvington, Virginia

Formerly an old schoolhouse with two front doors–one for boys, one for girls–Hope and Glory has moved to the head of the class as what Travel + Leisure called one of the country's 30 Great Inns.

The butter-yellow inn is an eccentric and romantic getaway in Virginia's Northern Neck. Romantic doesn't mean doilies, lace bedskirts, and ruffles: The style is sophisticated shabby chic.

The main building houses seven guest rooms, a breakfast room, and a living room decorated with folk art and columns entwined with grapevines and lights. Behind the inn are six cottages with private patios. A path leads to a clandestine outdoor shower with a clawfoot tub for moonlit soaks.

The inn is a quarter of a mile from Carter's Creek, where the Rappahannock spills into the bay. After sailing, golfing, shopping, or getting a massage–either en suite or at the Tides Inn's spa down the road–have a delicious meal at the Trick Dog Café down the street.

Bottom line: Chesapeake Bay charm meets trendy shopping and cuisine.

Hope and Glory Inn, 800-497-8228; hopeandglory.com. Doubles from $160, cottages $215 to $310. Three-bedroom cottages are available for larger groups.


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