Tuesday, June 29 at 11 AM

I'll second the recommendation of Tay Do.

That place has had many odd incarnations, including a conversion and rechristening — it was called, for a time, Metropoluxe — but the food is often excellent. Great pho, too. 

It's standard procedure for wine, not for BYOB.

You know, it's funny but I can't say I've ever seen a sommelier do this when I brought a bottle to a restaurant. I understand the need for it with a bottle in the restaurant's own cellar, but it seems an odd affectation to stick to when it's the customer's bottle. Yes, sure, a nice service — but also, as you point out, kind of a weird moment to have to sit through: He's drinking our wine!

I haven't had one yet. Best ever? That's saying a lot.

The pizzas they were making in their lipstick-red truck before they opened a storefront location I liked an awful lot. Those I would not hesitate to say were the best pizzas I ever had from a truck. I haven't been back to the truck since the shop opened, though.

Well, I have to say, my last meal at Passage was pretty disappointing. But for many years, yes, it's been not just the best Indian restaurant in Bethesda, but one of the best Indian restaurants in the area.

What else is there? Saveur India is pretty good. Aangan is pretty good. What am I overlooking–?

Good suggestions. Thanks for chiming in …

Also in Georgetown, and a place that slipped my memory last week, is Sweetgreen — the undisputed king of frozen yogurt in this town. 

To me, it tastes like a cross between Greek yogurt and frozen custard. Slightly tart, lusciously rich, supremely smooth. 

I'm right with you: I think Woodberry is a terrific restaurant — well worth the drive for those of us in this area. In fact, I think a lot of what it does, it does better than restaurants in DC with similar aims.

I also like that it's committed to local not just when it comes to meats and produce, but also when it comes to wines; the long and interesting list includes Black Ankle Vineyards from Maryland and several Virginia wineries.

I'm eager to get back there.

Thanks for the mouth-watering report, which has made me ravenous as I sit here sipping my coffee and typing. 

A "pervious" recommendation: I guess that'd be a recommendation with holes, huh? A hollow recommendation. I can only say, I hope that's not what I offer! : )

As for du Parc, yes, as good as ever when it comes to finding a big, steaming pot of sweet mussels. Moore's has slipped, I agree, and offhand I can't think of any place I'd strongly suggest.

One that comes to mind, but not for the familiar, classic preparations, is Franklin's in Hyattsville, where the mussels come on a cast iron skillet, sizzling and liberally flecked with coarse salt. It's a tasty dish, and especially with one of the Belgian-style brews from new brewmaster Mike Roy.

I've had that same dish there and didn't find it to be doused in the least, though it's entirely possible that whoever was heading up the kitchen that day got carried away. I loved the dish I had.

Smoked ribs sounds good. Hope they have them when I'm in next. 

No, no — it's a good question. I'm glad you asked it.

The big difference is that gelato is never frozen; it's almost frozen. Generally, gelato is kept at 33 degrees — a mere degree above the freezing point. But that mere degree difference is what accounts for the very distinctive texture of gelato.

That state that ice cream is in when it's scooped right from the carton — you never find gelato like that. It's softer. 

With ice cream, I generally like to wait; I like it to soften and become creamy. My favorite thing with a box of ice cream — and who among us has not sat with a carton and gone to town? — is waiting for the edges to melt and eating it from the outside, in. Then, turning the mass of ice cream over and skimming the bottom surface of it, the entirety of which is now all melty and wonderful.

Anyway, gelato is like that at the beginning. There's no need to wait.

The other difference is that gelato is more strongly flavored; the best gelatos have a liquer-like intensity. Some people don't like that; they don't like the way it's so assertive. Me, I love it.

One problem you need to watch out for with gelato shops is how they store the product. A good many will save what is not sold and freeze it — which, of course, negates what it is. Gelato is not frozen. To freeze it, then, means to change it into something it's not.

Always ask: Is this made today? How is it stored?

(Does it make you look like a smug, self-important s.o.b. to pipe up like this? Probably. But there must be ways to do it nicely.)

My favorite spots …

For gelato, I like Dolcezza a lot. I used to like Aroma d'Italia, but the last two times I was there the flavors were off. 

For ice cream: Milwaukee Frozen Custard — in Chantilly, Herndon, and Ashburn — is fantastic. I adore that place.

Can I ask why you'd want to know such a thing?

But OK, what the hell, nothing's private anymore …

I generally am up at 7:30. I'm a night person. I do a lot of my reading late at night, after my wife and son are asleep and the house is quiet, and there are many nights I'm reading until 1, sometimes 1:30, occasionally 2. There are times I'll go stay up finishing something and find it's 3 or later, but this doesn't happen as often as it used to, mostly because I now find I'm kind of shot the next day if I do, whereas in my 20s it hardly mattered.

So, what's next? The results of my Myers-Briggs test?

Hey, bud!

I know it, I need to try that place, you've been touting it for a while now. How about I swing by and pick you up and we go get a cone together?

I had to look these up — psychopathology, huh?

Nice to see my readers are questioning my stability and soundness of mind … : )

My three favorite places for brunch, although I willingly confess to not being a brunch-lover, are Poste Brasserie, Black Market Bistro and Tabard Inn. Interesting selections, attentive cooking, good atmosphere. Poste is at the top of that short list: I love the made-to-order donuts, I love the selection of drinks, I love the little twists on tradition.

Most of the time, however, I don't want all that first thing (or close to the first thing) in the morning. It's too much. It kills the day. What's that Jim Gaffigan bit about pancakes? You just want to call in sick afterwards and take the day off.

What I want, most of the time, is something like dim sum. Yes, of course, it can be heavy if you're not careful — but I'm careful, and generally go for a lot of variety from the carts. I also like going with a group, which cuts down on the tendency to gorge on any one dish.

I know it's not what most people think of when they think of brunch, but to me a table full of steamed buns and noodle crepes and tiny dumplings at Hollywood East Cafe on the Boulevard (alas, it's no longer on the Boulevard) is a great way to start the day.

$30 a head including tip and tax? I'd take 'em to Jaleo downtown. Or Zaytinya.

Tick off the boxes: value, comfort, setting, quality, variety, fun. I don't think you're going to find a better deal anywhere in the city.  

If I take "DC" to be the entire metro area, I'd also include Minh's on that short list. Your pooled money will go very, very far, and you'll eat very, very well. 

I'm still waking up, that's true.

I may get up at 7:30, but I don't really wake up — as in, being fully with-it and alert — until around noon. But I force myself to work — write — in the morning because I need something to work with later when I'm more locked-in, and because that's when most people are working and communicating.

As for the Myers-Briggs, I can tell you that the final letter is a "P" — a very definite "P." 

No word — at least, no word that's reached me.

It's been about 6 months, now, since both places announced their expansions. I heard summer for both, but I know from experience not to think that's going to mean July or August. These things always take longer than everybody thinks. There are always delays and setbacks. It might be September. Or early October. 

The palaak chat has kind of become the signature dish of the restaurant. It's a very light twist on the traditional dish. Rather than presented as a stew, the leaves of baby spinach are lightly, crispy fried and dressed with yogurt and tamarind.

I like it, I like its lightness and intensity of flavor, although a lot of the appeal for people is the novelty of it. I'd round out your first course with an order of the excellent seekh kabob; wonderfully spiced, minced lamb is fashioned into two long hot dogs and framed with long slicks of mint chutney.

For entrees: I'd go with any two of the following three — the lobster moilee, the tandoori lamb chops with cashews, ginger, and green herbs, or the rogan josh (which features a lamb shank rather than stewed chunks of lamb).

Dessert: apple beignet and/or carrot halwa.

Hope that helps. I'll be curious to hear how things turned out … 

208 Talbot is worthwhile. It's in St. Michael's. 

I like the list of wines, which is larger and more interesting than I would have expected — and particularly good for by-the-glass options. The atmosphere in the bar area, which I prefer over the dining room, is cozy and low-key, a good place to while away a couple of hours. If you go, think of assembling a meal as opposed to ordering more traditionally; the small plates are the strong suit.

The restaurant is not right on the water, but close.

Bella Luna is also a good bet. Also in St. Michael's. It's a combination gourmet market and cafe. The best thing there is the plate of meats and cheeses with homemade pickled veggies. It's wonderful. And even better with a glass or two of wine. Again, a full meal — with multiple courses — is an iffier thing.

I'll be interested to hear what you find at these places, and what else you might turn up. Drop in when you return and drop me a note.

Yes, agree. But cold pizza — still a pretty wonderful guilt-laden treat some mornings, no?

What's the best pizza for this, do you think, KO'ers?

My favorite, by far, is the pizza from Tommy Marcos' Ledo Restaurant — I think because of the distinctive biscuity crust and sweet tomato sauce. By the next morning, the cheese — mozzarella and smoked provolone — has congealed, but nicely, not disgustingly, like some. The pizza is like something else, something not-quite pizza — a new thing entirely.

If you've got a pizza that you think works cold, let me know; I'll be interested to hear what brand you think tastes good the next day.

Send any tips my way via email, and of course, please send along any dish write-ups you've got (no limit, here) to win a free copy of THE WILD VINE.

Be well, everyone, eat well and let's do it again next week at 11 …

[missing you, TEK]

>>Submit your questions in advance for next week's chat.