At the Red Derby, a gilt statue presides over the bar, Flashdance and other cornball classics play in the corner, and all the beers come in cans. Drinking at this Columbia Heights hangout feels like being back at the kids’ table: You can play Jenga while chatting with the mostly neighborhood regulars. Although 35 beers include such hard-to-find options as Wexford Irish Crème and Young’s Double Chocolate Stout, much of the crowd is downing $2 cans of Schlitz and Natty Boh.