Pastrami on Rye at Artifact Coffee
If there’s one thing Spike Gjerde never does, it’s cut corners.
The Woodberry Kitchen chef/owner doesn’t take it any easier at his Hampden
coffeehouse, where the pastrami in a deli-style sandwich takes more than a
week to corn, cure, and smoke, with a stop in the sous-vide
machine. It’s finished with pickled cabbage and cheese and served on
springy rye. Not surprisingly, Gjerde’s team makes that every morning,
too. 1500 Union Ave., Baltimore; 410-235-1881.
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Cheesesteak at Nice ’n’ Greasy, Steak ’n’ Cheesy
Most cheesesteaks are about the sum of their parts, not the
shredded meat, Cheez Wiz, or grease-streaked roll on their own. But at the
cheesesteak spot Michael Landrum installed in his old Ray’s Hell-Burger
Too space, it’s hard not to revel in the quality of each element, from the
tender and juicy rib eye to the mix of mellow American cheese and sharp
provolone to the spicy mayo called “groove grease.” 1725 Wilson Blvd.,
Arlington; no phone.
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Fried-Oyster Po’ Boy at New Orleans Po Boy Shop
With Saints jerseys tacked to the walls, bottles of Crystal hot
sauce on the tables, and a New Orleanian running the kitchen, this sliver
of a shop is striving for authenticity. Of all its sandwiches, this one
does the Big Easy proudest, with airy French bread shipped in from a
Metairie bakery and oysters—shucked, dredged in cornmeal, and fried to
order—from the Gulf. 1205 19th St., NW; 202-621-8118.
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Lobster Roll at Luke’s Lobster
Mainers like their lobster rolls bound with mayo, while
Connecticut folks prefer their claw and tail meat bathed in warm butter.
Luke’s—a spinoff of the popular New York original—shows that nobody has to
take sides: It loads up a traditional top-split hot-dog bun with cool
lobster salad, then finishes it with a drizzle of melted butter. An
excellent compromise. 624 E St., NW, 202-347-3355; 1211 Potomac St., NW,
202-333-4863; 7129 Bethesda La., Bethesda, 301-718-1005.
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Turkey Club at Stachowski’s
Turkey with sprouts and avocado—it doesn’t sound like the most
thrilling choice on the board. But leave it to butcher and charcuterie
king Jamie Stachowski to turn out a teetering, toothpick-secured
double-decker that’s one of the most satisfying sandwiches we’ve ever had.
What helps: fluffy slices of Pullman bread, copious crisp bacon, a good
slathering of mayo, and lots of freshly smoked turkey. 1425 28th St., NW;
202-506-3125.
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Photographs by Scott Suchman.
Read more from our Best in Food 2012 package.
This article appears in the December 2012 issue of The Washingtonian.
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Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
