15 Great Escapes: Eating Your Way Through Richmond

The former capital of the Confederacy has evolved into a dining destination, and surprise—it’s not all grits and biscuits. Here are nine places that wowed food and wine editor Todd Kliman on three recent visits.
Photograph by Ansel Olson for Secco Wine Bar.
Photograph by Ansel Olson for Secco Wine Bar.

Edo’s Squid
It’s impossible to resist the charms of this always-buzzing
restaurant—the sort of big-hearted red-sauce joint that DC has had to make
do without since the heyday of A.V. Ristorante (founded, as it happens, by
the father of Edo’s owner Ed Vasaio). Don’t overlook the fried calamari, a
masterpiece of frying, and order the oyster stew and cod chowder even if
you’re not in the mood for soup. 411 N. Harrison St.;

This newcomer, in a restored brick storefront, has been packing
them in since late last year with its smart, sometimes whimsical fare and
potent cocktails. The full plates are richly comforting, but it’s the
small plates (shrimp crackers, pimiento-cheese puffs, chicken-liver pâté
with red-beet gelée) that offer the biggest rewards. 1627 W. Main St.;

Lamplighter Roasting Company
This darling of Richmond’s bohemian set is an out-of-the-way
find for a light breakfast: micro-roasted coffee, excellent fresh
doughnuts, and house-made granola. 116 S. Addison St.;

Outside of DC’s Rasika, this might be the best Indian
restaurant in the region. Chef Mel Oza’s lamb vindaloo doesn’t
just scorch; it balances the heat with an acidic tang too often missing
from the dish. A seafood curry, a recent special, was a vivid rendering of
the often-lush coastal cooking of India’s Kerala region. The wine list,
overseen by a Level II sommelier, is an unexpected treat. 11800 W. Broad
St., Suite 910; 804-364-1111.

The Magpie
Chef Owen Lane is a hunter, which means he’s his own best
purveyor. His menu is studded with hearty exotica such as roasted rack of
wild boar, and you can almost always count on finding good sausage (a
recent version stuffed with pheasant, fennel, and chili flakes was rich
and aromatic). Go for brunch, when you can linger on the long,
bordello-style banquette with a zippy craft cocktail. 1301 W. Leigh St.;

Peter Chang China Cafe
The much-stalked chef who made his reputation at a series of
restaurants in Northern Virginia now plies his trade in Atlanta,
Charlottesville, and Richmond. Call ahead to make sure he’s in. If he is,
order liberally. The signature dishes are cumin fish and scallion bubble
pancakes, and in the master’s hands they’re magical. 11424 W. Broad St.;

Rappahannock Restaurant
Fresh off the success of their oyster bar at DC’s Union Market,
cousins Travis and Ryan Croxton opened this restaurant in December. Rule
of thumb: The simpler the plate, the better—such as a tray of cold, fresh
local bivalves topped with nori granita and trout caviar. Katie Nelson,
bartender at DC’s Columbia Room, is overseeing the drinks menu. 320 E.
Grace St.; 804-545-0565.

The Roosevelt
This lovingly restored apothecary is home to one of Richmond’s
most exciting eateries—the third hit for Midas-touch restaurateur Kendra
Feather. Chef Lee Gregory’s well-priced menu is an inviting update of
Southern traditions (get the chicken-skin sliders with house-made
pickles), and the all-Virginia wine list is a bold and brilliant stroke.
623 N. 25th St.; 804-658-1935.

Secco Wine Bar
Like the best wine bars, Secco is as good on the plate as it is
in the glass. The zesty flavors of the rotating crop of small plates—think
merguez sliders and anchovy-topped crostini—call for earthy reds,
and the Italian-and-Spanish-heavy list is full of them. 2933 W. Cary St.;

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