If you’re used to heavy and sweet Thai takeout, eating here for the first time is like watching The Wizard of Oz go from black and white to Technicolor. Few renditions of pad Thai are as vividly flavorful—at least in these parts—and salads such as green papaya and the minced-chicken larb gai bring on the chili-fueled heat. Even the grilled chicken is exciting, thanks to a tangy tamarind dipping sauce.
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