Ramen is hot these days, but for a long time Ren’s was the only game in town. The bare-bones dining room puts out traditional noodle soups—no kimchee or Swiss-chard versions here—that are soothing and satisfying. The ramen, with robust pork broths, can be had with soy sauce, salt, or—our favorite—miso. Accoutrements such as roast pork and bean sprouts are standard; we like to add a softly boiled egg, too.
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