Food

Cheap Eats 2008: Flavors Soul Food

Why go: Down-home cooking—big portions of chicken, barbecue pork, fried fish, all lovingly prepared. Who cares if the space is in need of sprucing up? Here’s hoping the Southern hospitality never gets an overhaul.

What to get: Fried chicken with a seasoned golden crust; expertly fried fish such as thin whiting filets; a smoky barbecue-pork sandwich with creamy coleslaw; yams gussied up with butter, cinnamon, and nutmeg but still tasting like yams; aggressively seasoned black-eyed peas—the best we’ve ever had.

Best for: Watching a Sunday game on the three TVs behind the bar or a big, stick-to-your-ribs family dinner.

Insider tip: If you order the chicken, be prepared to wait—it takes about 25 minutes to fry. If the kids get restless, follow the sounds of children playing until you find the playground nearby.

Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday 2 to 9, Sunday 1 to 7.

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