The Big Fat Gyro ($8.25) at the Athens Grill (9124 Rothbury Dr., Gaithersburg; 301-975-0757) is worth trying for the name alone. But this pileup of lamb, tzatziki, and French fries makes for good eating, too. Homey chicken stews over orzo or pilaf taste as if a Greek grandma made them. Vegetables—think eggplant and potatoes with garlic—are treated with respect and a healthy dose of olive oil. A hardwood/charcoal grill turns out Greek-style hamburger ($9.25) and pork kebabs ($13.50 for a platter). Portions are ultragenerous, so two can often share a single dish. Ditto for the baklava ($3.99), though it’s so light that you could probably eat the whole thing without batting an eye.
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Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
