When Yannick Cam is on, culinary nirvana ensues. After a rocky ride helming several DC restaurants, Cam has settled into a rhythm at his Bethesda bistro, which nods in the sun-kissed direction of southern France.
With its Provençal linens, yellow walls, and tables jammed side by side–this isn’t the place to divulge state secrets–the dining room feels very French. Taking a spot in the back offers the advantage of overlooking the open kitchen, where Cam is visible and sometimes chats with diners.
What to get: Baby squid with wild mushrooms; clams stuffed with spinach, walnuts, and onion confit; bouillabaisse with scallops and sea bass; hanger steak; roasted-pineapple baba au rhum; lemon galette.
Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Expensive.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
