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Very Good Humor
Comments () | Published July 15, 2008

Photographs by Scott Suchman

Who says summer’s only for kids? We asked six chefs to rejigger the iconic ice-cream truck’s goodies for grown-up tastes. The results, from a chocolate-stout Fudgsicle to a liquor-spiked Bomb Pop, are great additions to a picnic—or a dinner party.

If you’ve recently scanned a high-end restaurant menu, you might have picked up on something curious: Many local chefs are junk-food-obsessed. Lobster corn dog? Lollipops of lamb? A twirl of foie gras cotton candy to go with that Champagne?

Now that it’s really hot, we’ve got one kind of guilty pleas­ure on our minds—the coolers proffered every afternoon by the Good Humor man. We asked six chefs to choose their favorite kiddie classic and reinvent it for adults.

Remember the red-white-and-blue Bomb Pop? The version by Restaurant Eve sommelier Todd Thrasher retains the appearance of sweet innocence, but his is spiked with rum, vodka, and tequila.

Hook pastry chef Heather Chittum’s Italy-inspired snow cone, with stripes of strawberry and mint syrup, can be made for two-year-olds (with lemon syrup) or 22-year-olds (with limoncello).

Inn at Little Washington chef/owner Patrick O’Connell’s caramel-drenched ice-cream sandwich is probably more work than you’d want to put into a children’s birthday party, but chances are it will have grown-up dinner guests giggling with nostalgia. And trust us—O’Connell’s sweet-corn ice cream is a much better idea than any lobster corn dog.

Heather Chittum's Summer Snow Cone

For her tangy snow cone, Chittum starts by making simple syrups infused with mint and strawberries. The third cup can be spiked with limoncello or made with lemon syrup.
Hook pastry chef Heather Chittum's newfangled snow cone was inspired by two things—the flavors of summer and the colors of the Italian flag. “Italian desserts are light and simple by nature,” she says. “The ingredients are the stars of the show.” If you’re making it with kids in mind, use a lemon-infused syrup instead of limoncello.

Serves 8

2 cups sugar
2 cups water
2 pints strawberries
A squeeze of lemon juice
1⁄2 pound mint
2 cups limoncello
72 ounces crushed ice
Optional lemon-syrup substitution: 1 extra cup simple syrup (see instructions below) mixed with the juice of 5 lemons

Make a simple syrup: In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups sugar and 2 cups water to a boil. Set aside to chill. Measure 2 cups simple syrup and reserve the remaining liquid for the strawberry syrup.

Make the mint syrup: Bring a medium saucepan of water to boil. Pick the leaves from the mint and place in a strainer basket. Place a large metal bowl filled with ice water near the stovetop. When the water comes to a boil, blanch the mint in the strainer basket for about 30 seconds, then transfer it to the bowl of ice water to shock and cool it. Remove the mint and, using a cloth towel, squeeze out the excess water. Transfer the mint to a blender and, starting on low speed, slowly begin to add the 2 cups of simple syrup. Gradually increase the speed to high and blend until smooth. Pass the syrup through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any filaments. Chill.

Make the strawberry syrup: In a small pot over low heat, cook the strawberries until soft, about 5 minutes. Set aside. In a blender starting on low speed and gradually going to high, purée the strawberries and slowly add 1 cup simple syrup. Add a few drops of lemon juice if the syrup tastes too sweet. Refrigerate.

Make the snow cones: Line up 3 rows of 8 paper cups each. Fill each cup with ice. Using squeeze bottles or spoons, fill each row with a different syrup and the limoncello (or lemon syrup), dividing the liquids equally among each. Place one of each flavor on a plate and serve immediately.

Categories:

Food & Drink
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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 07/15/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Articles