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Nothing Succeeds Like Excess

“That’s evil!” Tony Bourdain enthused, chowing on the latest cholesterol buster from Eamonn’s while taping an episode of No Reservations. He was enjoying the Chip Butty, a toasted bun slathered with Kerrygold butter and stuffed with chips. Yes, a French-fry sandwich. It’s an homage to the Bacon Butty popularized on the Britcom Keeping Up Appearances. The lower-class brother-in-law of social climber Hyacinth Bucket (pronounced “Bouquet”) waved them around while watching the races on TV.

Eamonn’s isn’t alone in flouting the notion of moderation. The new Spider Kelly’s in Clarendon (3181 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-312-8888) proudly proclaims of its half-pound Spider Kelly burger: “This burger contains pork fat—YES!”

Neither spot approaches the excess of the nine-pound burger at the Burger Joint (4827 Fairmont Ave., Bethesda; 301-358-6137). The king of cholesterol busters, it comes not with fries but with a bottle of Maalox.

This appeared in the September, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.

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